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Graceland is hardly subtle. The Jungle Room has a green, Seventies shag-pile carpet, plastic plants and animal prints. The basement party den has a mirrored ceiling, bright yellow walls and three television screens; Elviss private jet, parked in the grounds, contains a double bed and gold-plated seat buckles; and his flared jumpsuits studded with rhinestones are reminders of his sartorial excesses. The Lorraine Motel where Martin Luther King was shot on April 4 1968 Credit: ALAMY But there was plenty to like about Graceland, too, especially the more down-to-earth side of his life the family photographs, the pink 1955 Cadillac he gave to his mother and a set of swings for daughter Lisa Marie. Our tour guide, Klein, focused on this homelier theme Presleys love of Christmas and opening presents around the tree, dinners where he would order more burgers with his secret call button under the table, and the parties fuelled by Pepsi-Cola (Elvis was a strict teetotaller). We left Graceland to head south for New Orleans, stopping overnight in Natchez, where the grand antebellum mansions were symbols of the huge wealth of the 19th-century cotton planters. The mansions, churches and simple reconstructed slave and sharecropping cabins at Frogmore Cotton Plantation in Louisiana were the last pieces in the musical jigsaw. It was in these cotton fields and churches of the Mississippi Delta that the African and Celtic gospel and folk traditions blended to create the palette of jazz, blues, bluegrass, country, rock, soul and r&b that spread through the region and around the world. Our whistle-stop journey had traced those roots from the recording studios of Nashville to the jazz bars of New Orleans. At our last-night dinner of gulf shrimp bisque and chicken gumbo at Arnauds Restaurant in New Orleans, Miss Ann handed each of us a copy of the souvenir CD wed recorded on our first day. We had certainly rushed in, and now we were rushing out again, but we couldnt help falling in love with the extraordinary musical history of Americas Deep South.
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